Hair straightener containing a kerating reducing agent, anionic wetting agent and water-soluble soap and method of using same



HAIR STRAIGHTENER CONTAINING A KERATIN REDUCEN G AGENT, ANIQNIC WETTIN GAGENT AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOAP AND METHOD OF USING SAME Feruand Roesch,Troy, N. Y., assignor to Irval Cosmetics, llnc., Troy, N. Y., acorporation of New York No Drawing. Application May 2, 1952 Serial No.285,797

.. 9 Claims. (Cl. 167-871) This invention relates to the art of treatinghuman hair and relates more particularly to compositions and methods fortreating human hair and to the preparation of such compositions. Thisinvention is concerned primarily with compositions and methods foreffectively changing or altering the configuration of human hair to aform which is altered or changed as compared, for example, with thatnormally incident to its growth. Certain of the features and advantagesof this invention are peculiar to the treating of cur-ly or kinky hairto make it more straight, although certain of the features andadvantages of this invention are of more general applicability either tothe straightening of curly or kinky hair or to the imparting of curls orwaves to hair that is normally straight.

It is a purpose of this invention to overcome the defects and drawbacksincident to prior methods and compositions for treating human hair forthe purpose of changing or altering its configuration, and is based onprolonged study and experimentation which had led to discoveries wherebyI have been able to successfully overcome such defects and drawbacks.

Any such composition or method should, of course, be such as toeffectively produce the desired change or alteration in theconfiguration of the hair, but as regards any particular composition ormethod which may be used its effectiveness is essentially experimentaland without predictability. In addition to being effective in producingdesired change or alteration in hair configuration any composition ormethod which is used should not be excessively irritating to the skinand should not be excessively injurious to the hair. To the extent thatit is possible to minimize skin irritation and damage to the hairincident to the use of such compositions or methods, such compositionsand methods are improved and rendered more desirable and acceptable tothe user. Such matters as objectionable odor, prolonged processingtimes, and the like also are disadvantages that have been incident tomany previously proposed compositions and methods. Such difiiculties anddrawbacks have been matters of concern in the art for many years andhave been of such character that they have been regarded as necessaryincidents to previously used hair treating compositions and methods ifthe desired alteration in hair configuration is to be obtained.

The problems incident to the straightening of hair which possesses thekinkiness that is normal to people of certain African descent arespecial and give rise to much greater difficulties as compared with thewaving of normally straight hair. Since such kinky hair is unruly andunmanageable and difiicult to arrange in attractive hair styles it isdesirable to remove the kinkiness, and removal of such kinkiness or theremoval of curls from other types of curly or kinky hair, in whole or atleast to a substantial extent, is referred to herein as hairstraightening. The difficulties incident to the straightening of kinkyhair result both from the fact that the kinkiness is difficult toovercome and from the fact that such kinky hair is considerably moredelicate than normally straight hair as re- States i atent Q ice gardsthe effect of chemicals thereon causing excessive embrittlement and lossof tensile strength. Kinky hair as compared with normally straight hairis usually more difficult to soften and swell so that its configurationcan be changed or altered, but at the same time is more porous and ismore susceptible to embrittlement and loss of tensile strength.Moreover, such kinky hair is usually black or nearly black in color andmany treating chemicals have the effect of imparting to the hair anunnatural reddish color which is undesirable. For such reasons manycompositions and methods which can be utilized in the waving of straighthair without excessive hair damage cannot be utilized in thestraightening of kinky hair without such excessive hair damage as torender such compositions or methods highly objectionable. However,because desirable hair styling is something widely sought after, resorthas been made to compositions and methods of straightening kinky haireven though they result in severe scalp irritation or severe hair damageor both. According to this invention it is possible to effectivelystraighten kinky hair without embrittlement, discoloration or otherdamage or scalp irritation and so that the effect is lasting, resistantto reversion due to moisture and results in improved quality, textureand luster and renders the hair more readily susceptible to managementand styling.

Some of the earlier attempts to alter hair configuration were in thedirection of using ammonia or ammonium salts, but such treating agentsproved to be relatively ineffective as well as objectionable to workwith and were discarded in favor of utilizing reducing agent chemicals.Thus, soluble sulfites and sulfides have been proposed and their actionhas been supplemented by the presence of ammonia. However, the sulfiteshave required relatively long treating times at relatively hightemperatures and likewise when effective to soften the hair haveresulted in undesirable bleaching effects. The sulfides are more activetoward hair but have objectionable odor under conditions of use andpossess other objectionable characteristics. In addition it has beenproposed to employ certain mercaptans in the presence of ammonia or thelike, but while many such mercaptans are active toward hair, suchactivity is difficult to control so as to prevent or minimize hairdamage. Such mercaptans when used in the manner stated are difiicult toremove from the hair and if left in the hair tend to cause embrittlementand breakage. They cannot be removed by washing or rinsing of the hairand some after-treatment such as an after-treatment with an oxidizingagent is required, if excessive hair embrittlement is to be avoided.While mercaptans in combination with ammonia have been used in thewaving of normally straight hair subject to the above mentionedlimitations respecting their use, nevertheless regardless of the mode ofapplication or after treatment a composition of the type consistingessentially of a mercaptan and ammonia cannot successfully be employedin attempting to straighten kinky hair because of the resultingexcessive embrittlement of the hair.

When hair is subjected to the action of a reducing agent it is believedfrom the point of view of the theoretical considerations involved thatsince hair contains fibrous protein, keratin, the reducing agent acts tomodify the constituent cystine or disulfide linkages by accomplishingthe rupture thereof, the number of linkages ruptured depending on suchfactors as the character and proportion of the reducing agent used, thetemperature incident to its application and the pH of the medium withwhich reducing agent is utilized. As the result of the rupture oflinkages the hair is brought to such condition that under stress, as,for example, the curling of normally straight hair or the straighteningof normally kinky hair, the hair can be shaped to desired configurationor form with reorientation of the polypeptide chains; and if the hairsubstance is thereafter set as by coagulation or redevelopment oflinkages due to ultimate reoxidation or similar action the hair willtend to retain its altered configuration or form. It is apparent,therefore, that the hair during such treatment is subjected to actionssubstantially affecting the hair substance itself and that haircharacteristics such as the tensile strength, pliability, softness,lustre, etc. of the hair are likely to be adversely affected.

.This invention comprises several novel features which in preferredpractice of this invention are employed in combination, although certainof these features may be employed separately and thereby obtain at leastin part the advantages and improvements resulting from so doing. Certainfeatures of this invention relate to the straightening of kinky hairusing a chemical reducing agent in the presence of a base materialcomprising a combination of ingredients which has the effect ofpromoting the activity of the reducing agent while at the same timepassivating the embrittling action of the reducing agent on the hair.The base material is also instrumental in facilitating the straighteningof kinky hair and the maintenance of the hair in straightened conditionwhile the hair is in the process of becoming softened and swollen. Thebase material which I have found to be effective for this purpose is amixture of an anionic wetting agent and a water-soluble soap within thelimits of concentration that will be described more in detail below andwhich I have found to be critical in order to obtain the aforesaidimprovements. Preferably these materials in combination afford anaqueous base of creamy consistency in which the reducing chemical isdissolved. While the wetting agent promotes the penetration of thereducing agent so that its action in rupturing molecular linkages isrendered more effective, the soap acts to passivate its activity in sucha way as to minimize hair damage; and it likewise serves to conditionthe hair surface so the penetration-inducing action of the wetting agentis rendered more effective. Moreover, the Wetting agent is believed tohave a catalytic effect in enhancing the effectiveness of the reducingagent for keratin for while the soap component of the base material alsoexercises a detergent and cleansing effect on the hair surface theaction of the reducing agent on the hair is much less effective in theabsence of the wetting agent and in the case of the preferred type ofreducing agent used according to this invention the effectivenessthereof is too slight to be consistent with practical use in the absenceof the wetting agent. On the other hand, the wetting agent by itselfdoes not have the passivating effect possessed by the soap incounteracting hair damage and in the straightening of kinky hair thepresence of the soap is essential. It is also believed that when thewetting agent and soap are employed in combination there is substantialsynergistic coaction between them as regards their capacity to removenaturally occurring oils so as to render the hair more susceptible tothe action of the reducing agent employed. The wetting agent likewiseappears to counteract the dulling effect on hair which is usuallyincident to the reaction of soap with hard water. However, regardless oftheory, I have found that it is not possible to successfully straightenkinky hair without excessive hair damage in the absence of the solublesoap component of the base; and I have likewise found that it is notpossible to successfully straighten kinky hair using the soap in theabsence of the wetting agent. In addition to these advantages of thebase material, it also enables the kinky hair to be better controlledduring treatment. Naturally kinky hair is quite springy and if a comb ismerely run through it it tends to spring back to its original kinkycondition. This makes the hair difficult to control and arrange indesired straightened condition, and the base material has been found tobe very effective in counteracting the springiness of kinky hair and inenabling it to be laid in controlled straightened condition.

' Further features of this invention relate to the nature andproportions of the chemicals employed to effect the swelling andsoftening of the hair. Thus, the chemicals which are employed accordingto preferred practice of this invention have been found to minimize hairembrittlement and loss of tensile strength and to minimize hairdiscoloration. These features are of especial importance in connectionwith the straightening of kinky hair. Further features and advantages ofthe preferred treating chemicals are that they are self-oxidizing inthat upon application to the hair they exercise initially their desiredfunctions of rendering the hair workable and susceptible toreorientation of molecular structure and then, during further treatmentof the hair and under the influence of heat, becoming oxidized so thattheir action on the hair becomes completely dissipated with the resultthat there is no possibility of any residue remaining which would tendto cause hair embrittlement and with the further result that no aftertreatment of any kind is necessary in order to remove the chemicals orto effect setting of the hair structure so that it will remain in itsaltered or changed configuration. If desired the chemicals can be lefton the hair after treatment without any adverse effect and it has beenfound that when this has been done and the hair is subsequentlyshampooed from time to time as in normal hair care the general qualityof the hair continues to be improved from the point of view of itspliability, softness and capacity to be combed and arranged intoattractive hair styles. It is possible according to this invention toimpart qualities of good hair to naturally problem hair.

Features of this invention relating to the preferred treating chemicalsresult from the combination of a reducing agent having a molar redoxpotential in an alkaline medium having a pH of about 8.2 in the range .5to 1.2 in combination with an ammoniacal buffer. The molar redoxpotential referred to above is that according to the well known scaleexpressed in volts and with reference to a value of zero for hydrogen,and ranging in terms of positively and negatively expressed valuesbetween limits of extreme according to which those having the greatestpositive values are the strongest oxidizing agents while those havingthe greatest negative values are the strongest reducing agents. Theammoniacal buffer may consist solely of an ammonium salt or an ammoniumsalt in combination with a limited amount of ammonium hydroxide. It isdesirable to have an ionizable ammonium compound in the composition forthe ammonium ion in the treating composition appears to have a softeningeffect on the hair which pro-motes access of the reducing agent foraccomplishing rupture of the cystine linkages. An ammoniacal bufferprovides such an ionizable ammonium compound and likewise has thefurther advantage of obtaining desired control of the pH of thecomposition for greatest effectiveness. Moreover, the ammonium saltcomponent appears to provide better stability of the composition andenhances the applicating qualities of the composition. Within thisclassification of preferred treating chemicals the substances which Iprefer to employ are alkali metal bisulfite as the reducing agent andammonium carbonate as the ammoniacal buffer and the advantages andimprovements incident to the use of such preferred treating agents maybe illustrated in connection with these preferred examples.

Preferably sodium bisulfite is used although potassium bisulfite mayalso be employed. The term alkali metal, as used herein and in theclaims, does not include am monium bisulfite which is objectionablebecause of instability and malodor. It is important to employ the alkalimetal bisulfite rather than a normal sulfite. I have found that if thenormal sulfite is used, it is not possible to obtain suflicientsoftening or swelling of the hair without attendant hair discoloration.For example, in the dekinking of black hair use of a normal sulfiteresults in objectionable development of reddish discoloration. It isalso important to employ the bisulfite rather than a normal sulfite, dueto the fact that the hydrogen ion that is liberated when the bisulfiteoccurs in an aqueous medium results in combination with the ammoniumcarbonate in a solution wherein optimum ion concentrations are affordedfor obtaining the most effective softening and swelling action on thehair. The ammonium carbonate that is used may be the ammonium carbonateof commerce which is regarded as having the formula (NII )HCO .(NH )(NH)CO and which technically is a mixture of ammonium acid carbonate andammonium carbamate. Since this material is referred to in the art asammonium carbonate the term ammonium carbonate will be used herein andin the claims with reference thereto although ammonium carbonate such asthat represented by the formula (NH CO may be employed and is includedin the term ammonium carbonate. The ammonium carbonate becomes ionizedin solution to produce ammonium ions, and it is desirable to useammonium carbonate in combination with the alkali metal bisulfite forproducing a medium of preferred hydrogen ion concentration wherein thesulfite radicals exert their reducing action in the presence of ammoniumions and whereby the swelling and softening of the hair is accomplishedin a very desirable way which permits its configuration or form to bepermanently and readily altered without embrittlement of the hair ordiscoloration of the hair. As above pointed out under the influence ofheat the above-described compositions have such self-oxidizingproperties as to eliminate the necessity for any after treatment.

For the straightening of kinky hair it is essential, as pointed outabove, to employ a treating chemical such as the combination of alkalimetal bisulfite and ammonium carbonate with the base material comprisingboth an anionic wetting agent and a soluble soap, for if the alkalimetal bisulfite and ammonium carbonate are employed in sufficientconcentration to accomplish such softening and swelling of kinky hair asto permit permanent straightening the hair becomes excessively brittleand loses its strength to an excessive degree. However, normallystraight hair is much more resistant to cmbrittlement than kinky hairand the compositions above referred to can be utilized in the waving ofnormally straight hair without utilizing the soap component of the base,and when so formulated the compositions possess the attendant advantagesof the self-oxidizing feature above mentioned when the preferredtreating chemicals are employed upon heating the hair while thecomposition is applied thereto and also possess the further at tendantadvantage of leaving the hair in a very desirable condition from thepoint of view of texture, softness and capacity to be arranged intodesired stylings. However, it is also the case that the compositionadapted for straightening kinky hair which contains both an anionicwetting agent and a water-soluble soap, if employed in imparting apermanent wave to normally straight hair, has been found by me to bevery effective in providing a permanent wave while at the same timeleaving the hair in a most desirable condition and in such case thepassivating action of the soap is of advantage in attaining optimumproperties for preserving the original strength and color of the hair.

In preferred formulation for straightening kinky hair the base materialnot only contains the anionic wetting agent and water-soluble soap, butalso contains a minor amount of an emollient material such as oleicacid, which not only contributes to passivating and counteracting theembrittling tendency of the reducing agent but also contributessubstantially to the softness and luster of the hair after the treatmenthas been completed. The presence of such an emollient is likewisebelieved to have a synergistic effect in combination with the wettingagent and the soap in obtaining effective initial removal of oils andgreases from the hair.

In connection with the employment of the compositions above described itis normally neither necessary nor desirable to employ other substancesin the treating composition. However, other substances may be presentwhich do not impair the effectiveness of the composition for thepurposes stated or result in excessive injury to hair. However,preferred compositions for use according to this invention aresubstantially free of any reducing agent for keratin other than thealkali metal bisulfite or are such that the reducing agent component ithe composition has a molar redox potential in the aforesaid range of .5to -l.2. Thus, for example, I have found that the condition of hairafter treatment is better than if, for example, some other reducingagent such as a mercaptan were also to be present in the composition. 7

The foregoing constitutes preferred practice of this invention which isespecially suitable for professional treatment of hair for thestraightening of kinky hair or the waving of normally straight hair inan operation involving the employment of heat after the treatingcomposition has been applied to the hair. While it is possible to employheat in the treatment of hair in connection with non-professional orhome treatment it is preferable for such non-professional or hometreatment that the composition be such that it is effective at normalroom temperatures. For such purposes the activity of the composition atroom temperatures can be promoted by the inclusion therein of a morepowerfully acting reducing agent such as a mercaptan. A number ofmercaptans which are suitable for this purpose are disclosed in PatentNo. 2,577,710 and the mercaptan which I preferably employ isthioglycolic acid or ammonium thioglycolate. When used in combinationwith the other ingredients of the composition of my invention I havefound that the amount of mercaptan need be quite small. Thus, in thecase of thioglycolic acid the amount thereof that is combined with theother ingredients of my composition in order to be effective at roomtemperatures may be as little as substantially less than 1% by weight ofthe composition as a whole. The employment of a mercaptan in smallamount is preferable for when a mercaptan is used it not only isdifficult to remove from the hair but also has a greater embrittlingtendency than the other ingredients of my composition. Such mercaptanslikewise do not possess the self-oxidizing attribute of the otheringredients of my composition and when a mercaptan is employed even insmall amount it is necessary to follow the hair treatment quite promptlywith some suitable after treatment by Which the reducing action of anyresidual mercaptan retained in the hair is neutralized. Otherwise anymercaptan retained in the hair will gradually cause excessiveembrittlement and loss of tensile strength. After treatments of anoxidizing character such as treatment with a dilute solution of sodiumor potassium bromate or of sodium perborate are suitable for thepurpose. Moreover, when a mercaptan is employed it is also necessary toemploy in conjunction therewith a substantial amount of aqua ammonia orthe like for otherwise the mercaptan does not have the desiredeffectiveness. When any such composition is used for straightening kinkyhair it is essential, as mentioned above, to employ the base materialcontaining both a wetting agent and a wator-soluble soap and it is alsopreferable to employ the emollient. Moreover, for non-professionalstraightem ing of kinky hair it is preferable to employ a thicken ingagent in the composition that is applied to the hair.,

Having hereinabove described the principal purposes, features andadvantages of my invention I will hereinafter explain the nature of myinvention in connectionwith typical formulations and methods comingwithin. the scope thereof.

The preferred composition for use in the straightenng o kinky air asco dng t h in n ion. whi is l o e cel nt for Waving n r a st h a r on tainsthe following ingredients in substantially the fol- Water q. v. to 100%.

A typical preferred composition Within the foregoing ranges is asfollows:

Percent Ammonium carbonate 4.5 Sodium bisulfite I 2.2 Sodium laurylsulfate 4.2 Titre 42 tallow soap 5.6 Oleic acid v 1.0 Water 82.5

The preparation of the foregoing typical preferred composition will nowbe described; and certain of the features of this invention relate toits preparation. The first step in the preparation of the composition isthe production of the base material containing the wetting agent and thesoluble soap. To this end the titre 42 tallow soap is first commingledwith water and the mixture of water and soap is heated to about 85 C. to90 C. The amount of water that is employed should be suflicient todissolve the soap at this temperature and in practice about 4 parts byweight of water to about 1 part by weight of the soap has been found tobe satisfactory for preparing a smooth solution Without the occurrenceof lumps. Referring to the foregoing example, when the soap has beendissolved in the amount of water and the sodium lauryl sulfate is thenincorporated, the combined weight of the soap and the sodium laurylsulfate constitute substantially 30% by weight of the solution. However,a greater proportion of water could be employed consistent with the overall water content permitted in the completed composition. Thus, asillustrated by the proportional ranges hereinabove given, the combinedweight of the soap and anionic wetting agent in relation to the watercontent of the completed composition may be as low as about 5% by Weightbut for the higher solids contents is about by weight. It is preferablethat the amount of Water be held down so as to be in the lower portionof the above-mentioned range and it is desirable that the amount ofWater be not greater than about 8 parts by weight of water to 1 part ofthe soap for the better curing is thereby afforded and the storageduring curing is facilitated. The heated mixture of soap and Water issubjected to mechanical agitation as by stirring to accelerate thedissolution of the soap and the formationof a smooth solution. After thedissolution of the-soap has been completed the resulting solution iscoo-led to about 45 C. Sodium laurylsulfate which has been prepared inthe form of a Water solution containing, for example, about by weight ofthe sodium lauryl sulfate is heated to about C. and is then mixed withthe soap solution which is-at the aforesaid temperature of about C. andthese materials are thoroughly mixed together as by stirring. Theresulting mixture is permitted to cool to room temperature andpreferably is permitted to stand for about 10 days or longer toaccomplish curing which results in increased smoothness and betterconsistency. When an emollient is used such as oleic acid it can beincor porated in this base material. Since oleic acid is of liquidconsistency at room temperature all that is required is to incorporateit with mechanical agitation until it is thoroughly dispersed. However,if desired he m llieat 9 1 .4 be m e n an aq u .e e prior toincorporating it with the base. Preferably only part of the water thatis comprised in the completed composition is utilized in initiallydissolving the soap and the balance of the Water is added after thecuring step except for such Water as may be additionally included in thecomposition as the result of incorporating therewith a solution of theother ingredients of the composttio-n.

The base material for the composition having been prepared as describedabove the other constituents are added thereto. This is done bydissolving the ammonium carbonate in enough water to accomplish thedissolution thereof. This is ordinarily done at room temperature, andafter the ammonium carbonate has become dissolved the sodium bisulfiteis added to the solution by adding the sodium bisulfite relativelyslowly in solid finely divided form while stirring the solution. Duringthis operation there is a certain amount of interaction between thesodium bisulfite and the ammonium carbonate which results in evolutionof some carbon dioxide. After the solution has become complete thepreviously prepared base material is mixed therewith and the resultingcomposition is ready for use. It can be used immediately or can beplaced in containers for subsequent use, for the composition is stableand can be stored for long periods.

The preparation of the base material can be varied somewhat from thepreferred method for doing so that has been exemplified above. It isdesirable in order to effect proper dissolution of the soap to heat themixture of the soap and water to a temperature of at-least about C. butwhile it is preferable-to so heat the mixture of soap and Water prior tothe incorporation of the Wetting agent, the wetting agent can becommingled with the soap and water before the mixture of soap and wateris heated to effect dissolution of the soap, provided only that thewetting agent which is employed is not excessively decomposed orotherwise adversely affected by the temperatures employed during thedissolution of the soap. The heating of the wetting agent prior to itsbeing commingled with the soap or the soap solution is merely tofacilitate its incorporation. Thus, in the case of sodium lauryl sulfatea 30% water solution thereof is relatively solid at ordinary roomtemperature but becomes of the consistency of a syrupy liquid whenheated to about 40 C. to 45 C. If the wetting agent employed, or anaqueous solution thereof, is sufficiently fluid at ordinary temperaturesthere is no necessity for heating it prior to incorporation with thesoap or soap solution. However, after the soap solution has beenprepared it is ordinarily desirable to mix the wetting agent with thesoap solution when the soap solution is mildly heated to a temperatureat which it possesses greater fluidity than it does at room temperature.Some curing of the base material, at least about 24 hours, is highlydesirable in order that the composition may be of the properconsistency. It is also important to complete the preparation of thebase material before the hair softening chemicals, namely, the sodiumbisulfite and the ammonium carbonate, are added thereto. When thecomposition is thus prepared it is stable notwithstanding the presenceof the hair softening chemicals which, because of their nature aselectrolytes, have a tendency to break an emulsion or dispersion.However, the presence of the electrolyte ingredients is compatible withthe base material as formulated according to this invention in the sensethat the creamy nature of the finished composition is stable. Moreover,the activity of the wetting agent component of the base is believed tobe substantially increased by the presence of the ammonium carbonate inthe composition.

The composition which is formulated and has been prepared as abovedescribed is of cream-like consistency. In the straightening of lginltyit is applied to the hair, which, preferably, has had a preliminaryshampoo. While the composition is thoroughly worked into the hair, thehair is combed to partially elongate it and the creamy consistency ofthe composition as well as its action on the hair greatly assists ingetting the hair to lie in such condition. Usually it requires onlyabout or minutes to apply the composition and comb out the hair. Afterthis operation has been completed the hair is mildly preheated andpartially dried as by blowing it with a blast of Warm air at about 38 C.The removal of the excess moisture requires about 5 to 10 minutes and isdesirable so as to minimize the possibility of steam burns. The hairwhich has thus been treated and partially dried is then pressed as witha hot comb at a temperature of about 75 C. to about 130 C. withresultant straightening of the hair. After such application of heat hasbeen completed the hair is then exposed to cool air for about threeminutes. The hair can then be styled as desired and no further treatmentis necessary although, if desired, the hair can be rinsed and thereafterstyled in either moist or dry condition. While the hair softeningchemicals in the composition serve to soften the hair at considerablylower temperatures such as 21 C. to 24 C., the oxidation of the sodiumbisulfite in the composition proceeds much more slowly at suchtemperatures and when oxidation of the reducing agent is effected solelyby reaction with the hair substance and contact with the air the timerequired for its accomplishment would be undesirably long. The use ofheat has the effect of greatly accelerating the oxidation of the sodiumbisulfite as the result of its reaction with the hair substance andcontact with the air with the result that under the influence of heatthe composition is self-oxidizing in a relatively short time so that noafter treatment with an oxidizing agent or the like is required and thisis a very desirable feature of this invention. However, it would bepossible to utilize a lower temperature over a longer period of time.

Treatment of kinky hair as above described 'has been repeatedlydemonstrated to afiord greatly superior results as compared with priorproposals for straightening hair. Thus, the hair is readily handled andit is effectively and permanently straightened. It is also importantthat the hair is in no way discolored, embrittled or weakened. In factthe hair retains its full natural color, and its luster, softness andcapacity to be combed and styled are enhanced. Moreover, there is noscalp irritation, the scalp after treatment being normal and healthy inevery respect and in some cases actually improved. Operators whorepeatedly carry out the operation can do so without skin irritationeven though they do not wear gloves.

In the above mentioned composition the combination of the titre 42tallow soap and the sodium lauryl sulfate, as the result of what appearto be simultaneously occurring catalytic, synergistic and suppressiveeffects, possesses the above mentioned capacity of enhancing the actionof the softening and swelling chemicals while at the same timepreventing weakening or other damage to the hair. It likewise exerts acleansing, dispersing and foaming action and plays an important part inenabling the hair to lay in straightened condition during the hairtreatment. It also promotes the self-oxidizing properties of thecomposition as a whole and facilitates the setting of the hair after theinitial softening of the hair and after the desired alteration in theconfiguration of the hair has been completed. Moreover, the combinationof the soap with the wetting agent enables the composition to beformulated in the form of an emulsion having a creamy consistency. Inorder to have much elfectiveness the soap should constitute at leastabout 2% by weight of the composition, while a soap content in excess ofabout 10% is somewhat injurious to some types of hair. The amount ofwetting agent that is employed will depend somewhat upon the type ofwetting agent that is employed, for the amount of wetting agent requiredfor producing a given effect varies considerably between differentwetting agents. While in the case of sodium lauryl sulfate it ispreferable that there be present in the composition at least about 2.5%,a lesser quantity can be used and in the case of some wetting agents thequantity employed may be as low as about .3%, although a. largerpercentage such as at least about .5% is normally preferable. An amountof wetting agent in excess of about 6% by weight of the composition issomewhat injurious to some types of hair. The'amount by weight of thesoap preferably is at least that of the wetting agent. Moreover, it ispreferable that the amount by weight of the base material be at least asgreat as that of the hair softening and swelling chemicals, namely, thesodium bisulfite and the ammonium carbonate in the ease of theformulation above illustrated.

The term water-soluble soap as used herein and in the claims is employedin the conventional sense as referring to the water-soluble salts offatty acids. As is inherent in the term soap, the fatty acid is onewhich contains twelve or more carbon atoms and is of the general typederived from naturally occurring oils and fats. Soaps of fatty acidshaving more than twenty-two carbon atoms have reduced solubility and areless desirable for this reason, and ordinary types of soap wherein thefatty acid group contains on the average about eighteen to twenty carbonatoms have been found to be very satisfactory for use in the practice ofmy invention. A sodium soap is ordinarily employed but a potassium soapis also suitable. Most commercial soaps contain the sodium or potassiumsalts of more than one fatty acid and may contain minor amounts of saltsof fatty acids outside the above mentioned range of carbon atomcontents. The fatty acid groups present in greatest proportion in mostsoaps are stearic, palmitic and oleic although others may be present inminor or major proportions such as linolenic, erucic, myristic, lauric,etc. The type of soap which I preferably employ in the practice of myinvention is one which contains in substantial proportion a soap of anunsaturated fatty acid. The titre 42 tallow soap which has beenmentioned above is illustrative of a soap of this type for it containsapproximately 50% of soap of unsaturated fatty acid, mostly the soap ofoleic acid which is unsaturated. The bulk of the saturated fatty acidsoap contained in titre 42 tallow soap consists of the soaps of palmiticand stearic acids. The unsaturated fatty acid group may be of theolefinic type or of the acetylenic type. In addition to soap of oleicacid, soaps of other unsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic, linolicand erucic acids may be comprised in the preferred type of soap. Thepresence of a substantial amount of soap of an unsaturated fatty acid isdesirable in preserving the softness of the hair and in minimizing hairembrittlement and I prefer that the soap which is used contain at leastabout 40% by weight of soap of unsaturated fatty acid, although stillbetter results are obtained when the soap contains at least about 50% byweight of soap of unsaturated fatty acid.

The use of sodium lauryl sulfate as the wetting agent component of thebase material has been found to be especially suitable for use accordingto this invention. One source of sodium lauryl sulfate is the productwhich is sold under the trade-name Orvus paste by Procter & Gamble andwhich consists essentially of water and about 30% to 31% of sodiumsulfate of lauryl alcohol or analogous alcohols. Sodium sulfates of thesocalled coconut fatty alcohols are generally equivalent. Such a wettingagent is of the anionic type, and it is wetting agents of the anionictype which are employed according to this invention. By definition ananionic wetting agent is one which is ionizable and is one wherein theeffective sur- 1 t face active part is the anion. An anionic wettingagent. "be distinguished from a cationic wetting agent or a non ionicwetting agent. i

Inad'dition to sodium lauryl sulfate any anionic wet-- ting agent may beemployed according to this inven tion,. although wetting agents of thesulfate'd alcohol type are preferred. There are many Well known wettingagents of the .anionic'ftype. The term wetting agent has been usedherein and in the claims according to conventional. usage as aterm'which excludes and distinguishes from soap. "The materials which"are classified as wetting: agents generally have other properties suchas emulsify ing, dispersing andothe'r detergent properties andfrequently have foaming and softening properties, in addition to thesurface tension modifying properties which are apredominantcharacteristic ofwetting agents as a class. Moregenerallysuch agents may be referred to as sur-- face active agents and asdistinguishing them from'soaps. they have been commonly referred to assurface active agents of the synthetic type. However, this class ofsub-- 1 stances which is employed according'to this invention, asdistinguished from the soap component thereof, has. been referred toherein and in the claims as an anionic: wetting agent. i As indicatedabove sodium lauryl sulfate is illustra-- tive'of an anionic wettingagent of the sulfated alcohol type. Sodium cetyl sulfate is anotherexample of a. wetting agent of this type. In such sulfated alcohol'type=wetting agents the alcohol group generally contains from. 8 to 18 carbonatoms and may or may not be of the straight chain type, and they are forthe most part pro-- duc-d from unsaturated fatty alcohols derived fromfish oil acids or the acids of the more unsaturated vegetable oils,although alcohol made by the reduction of fatty acids obtained byoxidation of petroleum products may be employed, e.' g., the sodiumsulfate of 2-ethylhexanol. Wetting agents of the alkyl aromaticsulfonate type alsohave especially favorable properties. Anionic wettingagents may be employed which are of the type wherein the hydrophilicgroup is acarboxyl group that is joined to the hydrophobic group throughan intermediate group such as an amide group, an ester linkage or asulphoamide group. However, in most of the wetting agents thehydrophilic group is either a sulfate ora s'ulfonate which may beattached directly to the hydrophobic group or indirectly through .alinkage such as an ester, ether, or amide linkage. Sodium saltsof'sulfat'ed monoglyceride of coconut fatty acids are illustrative ofsulfuric ester compounds ofthis type. Sodium salts of the sulfate ofacyl derivatives of 4-amino buta'nol-Z are illustrative of sulfuricester compounds of this type with an amide linkage. Sodium salts ofsulfated phenolic ether alcohols are good wetting agents,'e. g., sodiumt-octylphenoxyethoxyethyl ether sulfonate. Alkane sulfonates' arealsotypical such as coconut fatty sulfoacetate or di-isobutyl ester of.sulfosuccinate. alcohol amine condensate type can alsobeernployed. Theforegoing and many other anionic wetting agents are wellknownin'the artand forthis reason further reference to the .wetting agent component ofthe composition is not regarded as necessary. Those having the greateststability and compatibility at the pH of the composition and under theconditions of preparation and use of the composition are the mostsuitable.

Neitherthe arnmo'nium'c'arbonate nor the sodium bisulfite' in' theforegoing cornposition formulationis effective lto produce the desiredsoftening and swe'lling of the hair structu'reoccasioned byrupture ofthe cystine linkages, but in combination within the aforesaidproportional ranges they are etfective to do so, the action in thisregard being accelerated'by heat which, as mentioned above, is desirablein that the heat also accelerates the self-oxidation of the mixtureaccompanied by setting of the ha" after it has been initially softenedand formed Wetting agents of the fatty into an altered configuration. vlt is norrnally desirable thatthe amountiby' weight offthe arriindniumcarbonate be at least, that'of the sodium bisulfite for obtaining thedesired effect on the hair. Preferablythe weight ratio 'of the ammoniumcarbonate to the sodium bisulfite is between 1.5 'to 1 and 4 to l. Thevalue for this ratiois preferably approximately 2 to 1. Another reasonfor employing the ammonium carbonate and the sodium bi- "sulfite withinthe rangesand ratio 'relationshipsdabove given isthat as the result ofionization ofthe chemicals in solution, the hydrogen ion concentrationis such as to provide optimum activity .infsoftening and swelling thehair, without, however, damaging or discoloringthe hair. The desiredhydrogen ion concentration may be further characterized by refere'nce'tothe factthat the pH of the composition as applied to the hair isdesirably between about 7.5 and ab'out 9.5. The preferredpHof thecomposition is about 8.2 for at about this pH superior all aroundeffectiveness has been obtainedin the practice of' this invention. Theattainmentof such pH ranges is one of thereasons for the employment incombination of ammonium carbonate and sodium. bisulfite'and for theemployment ofsodiurn bisulfite' rather than the normal sulfite. Thefore'going respecting the content of the'amrnonium carbonate and thesodium bisulfite represent theconcentration Within which effectiveactivity toward hair is obtainable, without, however, having theactionon the hair excessively severe. The foregoing as regards sodiumbisulfite is alsoapplicable to other alkali metal bisulfites, i. e.,potassium bisulfite, or to mixtures thereof. i y i I While there issome, interaction between ammonium carbonate andsodium bi'sulfite whenthese materials are initially mixed in an aqueous medium including someevolution of CO with the result that the identity of materials asincorporated in aqueous solution may to some extent be altered as theresult of ionization'and some interaction therebetween, neverthelessbecause the extent of mixed substances in an ionized state and theextent and nature of any interaction is essentially of alrelativelycomplex nature, the compositions that are employed in the practice ofthis inventionare referred to and defined both hereinand in the claimsin terms of the .kind and proportion of the ingredient materialsincorporated, and it is to be understood that such reference to anddefinition of said compositions are applicable to the product ofcommingling the respective ingredients in the aqueous medium therefor.

While the ammonium carbonate is an ionizable ammonium compound thatinherently possesses substantial buffering action, itsfunction as anammoniacal buffer can beenhanced by the inclusionin the composition ofammonium hydroxide, e. g., in the form of a solution of conventionalconcentration such as 26 to 28% solution. However, the amount ofammonium hydroxide. that is employed is preferably relatively small suchas about 1% by weight of a 28% solution, and preferably not more thanabout 2% by weight of a 28% ammonium hydroxide solution is incorporatedso as not to adversely atfect'tne hydrogen ion concentration at whichthe' most desirable action on the hair is obtained, .namelv, within thelimits'of the pH hereinabove mentioned: Moreover, an excessive quantityof ammonium hydroxide imparts an unpleasantly strong ammonia odor to thecomposition.

In addition to ammonium carbonate other ammonium salts of weak organicacids such as ammonium acetate or ammonium oxalate may be employedeither alone or in combination with ammonium. hydroxide to provide anammoniacal buffer. In such case the proportions em-. ployed areessentially similar to those given hereinabove, namely, the ammoniumsalt component .of the ammoniacalbulfer' is of the range ifrom about 2%to abcut 8 by weight of the composition as owl 91e, amounts in excess ofabout by weight normally being excessive. The foregoing preferred ratiorelationships of ammonium can bonate to alkali-metal bisulfite are alsoapplicable more generally to the ammonium .salt content of theammoniacal buffer in relation to the alkali-metal bisulfite or otherreducing agent for keratin. When the ammoniacal buffer also comprisesammonium hydroxide in the relatively small amounts hereinabove indicatedas preferable the amount of NH OH on an anhydrous basis in thecomposition as a whole is quite small, namely, about .5% by weight orless, but is to be taken into consideration as regards the percentage byweight of the ammoniacal buffer a a whole contained in the composition.Such NH OH content is to be understood as being additional to any NH OHderived from hydrolysis of the ammonium salt content of the buffer, e.g., by inclusion of ammonium hydroxide solution in addition to theammonium salt.

The limits for pH hereinabove given are those which have been found tobe preferable in obtaining desired effect on the hair of the compositionas a whole. However, the compositions are operable over a wider limit ofpH from above 7 up to 9.8, the higher pH values being especiallyapplicable when a mercaptan is also included in the composition for thepurposes described more fully hereinafter. Such higher pH values canreadily be obtained by including a greater proportion of ammoniumhydroxide in the ammoniacal buffer. However, more than about 12% of a28% ammonium hydroxide solution is usually undesirable, and,accordingly, the amount of NH OH on an anhydrous basis in the ammoniacalbuffer does not exceed about 3% by weight of the composition as a wholeand preferably does not exceed about 2% by weight of the composition asa whole.

More generally in considering the ammoniacal buffer as a whole it mayconsist of the ammonium salt of a weak acid or an ammonium salt incombination with ammonium hydroxide. The amount thereof may range fromabout 2% to about 13% by weight of the composition as a whole with theproviso that the ammonium salt content is of the range of about 2% toabout 10% by weight of the composition, while the NH Ol-I on theanhydrous basis does not exceed about 3%. For the preferred lowerpercentages of NH OH above mentioned such as 1% or 2% the upper limit ofthe aforesaid range for the percentage of the ammoniacal buffer as awhole is correspondingly reduced and like considerations apply asregards the preferred upper limit for the ammonium salt of about 8%.While the amount of the ammoniacal buffer and the relative amounts ofammonium salt and NH OH, if any, comprised therein can thus beexpressed, it is also the case that the percentage range for theammoniacal buffer as a whole taken in connection with a given pH valueor a given range of pH inherently imposes a limitation on the amount ofNH OH comprised in the ammoniacal buffer, particularly as regards thelower range of pH within which the preferred treating chemicals areemployed according to this invention, for as a general rule as theproportion of NH OH is increased the pH of the composition alsoincreases. To a certain extent the nature of the other constituents alsoaffect the pH of the composition as a whole. Thus, a wetting agent suchas sodium lauryl sulfate has a pH slightly under 7 but upon mixing itwith the soap which is alkaline, the commingled Wetting agent and soaphave a pH of about 8 which is close to what is desired. The hydrogen ionliberated from the sodium bisulfite has previously been commented uponand as aforesaid the preferred composition exemplified hereinabove has apH of about 8.2

The reducing agent which I have found to be the most satisfactory issodium bisulfite. However, sodium metabisulfite has closely similarproperties. Sodium hydrosulfite also has efiective reducingagentproperties and so 14 has sodium oxalate, but because sodium oxalate hastoxic properties care would have to be exercised in its use. Asaforesaid the preferred reducing agent component of the composition issuch that its molar redox potential at a pH of about 8.2 is in the rangefrom .5 to l.2. The amount of such reducing agent is preferably about1.5 to 5% for when the composition is formulated within the aforesaidpreferred range of pH the action on the hair becomes more aggressivewhen the proportion of reducing agent is increased and the compositionbecomes more difficult to employ without weakening the hair structure.However, for other values of pH less favorable to the reaction with thehair substantially larger proportions of the reducing agent may beemployed, but in any case the quantity of reducing agent should notexceed about 7 10% by weight of the composition.

With regard to the oleic acid component of the foregoing compositionformulation, its presence is not essential in order to effect thestraightening of kinky hair in a satisfactory and effective way.However, the inclusion of the oleic acid emollient affords a definiteimprovement especially as regards the condition of the hair after thehair has been straightened and set in the straightened condition. Theoleic acid cooperates with the soap in protecting the hair fromembrittlernent while permitting the effective rupturing of the cystinelinkages and likewise tends to leave the hair in a better condition asregards luster and softness. Hair from which natural oils have beenremoved tends to be dull looking and lacking in luster. While the oleicacid appears to exercise a synergistic effect together with the wettingagent and soap in removing natural oils from the hair, nevertheless,when the oleic acid is present in the composition a certain amount ofthe oleic acid is retained by the hair and replaces the natural oil withthe result that the hair retains its natural brilliance and luster.Oleic acid is the preferred emollient for use according to thisinvention both because of its special effects on the properties of thehair during and after the treatment and because of its capacity to bereadily emulsified and dispersed in the composition in a conditionreadily taken up by the hair. However, other unsaturated acids may beemployed whose carbon content is such that at normal temperatures theconsis tency of the acid is of an oily or unctious character, the carboncontent ordinarily being 12 or more while the melting point ispreferably below ordinary atmospheric temperature, about 72, or not morethan about 30 F. higher. Such unsaturated acids are referred to hereinand in the claims as unsaturated organic acid emollients. Other examplesare iso-oleic acid, hypogaeic acid (derived from peanut oil), rapic anderucic acids (both derived from rape and mustard), linoleic acid, andlinolenic acid. Unsaturated acids of the acrylic acid series may also beemployed such as physetoleic, lanopalmic, and lanoceric acids.

While the above mentioned composition is intended primarily for thestraightening of kinky hair it is likewise an excellent one forimparting a permanent wave to normally straight hair. In such case thetreating techniques above described in connection with the straighteningof kinky hair are followed except that the hair after the initialswelling and softening thereof is caused to become set while held incurlers or the like adapted to produce such hair configurations as maybe desired, e. g., curls, waves or the like.

The foregoing formulations are intended primarily for professional usein an operation involving the application of heat. For nonprofessionaluse it is distinctly preferable to provide a composition such that noheat is required. However, when heat is not employed then chemicalshaving a more powerful reducing action on hair should be employed sothat when the composition is used it may be effective at ordinary roomtemperature and during a period of reasonably short duration. The

mo e e a h m mls-in hi ae rrc a e th m q p that have been referred tohereinaboye, but when a mercaptan is employed the composition loses thedesirable self-oxidizing properties of the preferred compositionformulations hereinabove described and some after treatment becomesnecessary in order vto effectively stop at the proper time suchac-tionof the mercaptan on the hair as would result in excessiveembrittlement. Moreover, in order for the mercaptan to be effective thepresence of a substantial amount of aqua ammonia is desirable and thisdetracts from the obtainment of optimum conditions of hydrogen ionconcentration as regards the efficacy of above mentioned less powerfulreducing agents such as sodium bisulfite contained in the composition.Itis for these as well as other reasons that I prefer in connection withcompositions used by professional applicators to employ a compositionwherein the molar redox potential of the reducing agent component is inthe aforesaid range of -.5 to 1.2 instead of employing any mercaptan,and as aforesaid I prefer that the composition be substantially free ofany reducing agent for keratin other than alkali metal bisulfite.

When the composition is formulated for use at room temperature,including a mercaptan, the composition in order to be acceptable in thestraightening of kinky hair without excessive injury thereto shouldcontain the aforesaid base material containing an anionic wetting agentand a water-soluble soap in substantially the pro-portions that havebeen set forth hereinabove. Preferred composition formulation for suchuse comprises the following ingredients in the following relativepercentages by weight:

Water q. v. to 100%.

In the foregoing composition the ammonium thioglycolate is awater-containing commercial product wherein the effective mercaptancomponent, thio-glycolic acid, constitutes about 46% by .weight thereof.It follows that the thioglycolic acid percentage in the foregoingcomposition is about .8% to about 1.4%. The employment of a relativelysmall percentage of mercaptan is preferable from the standpoint ofminimizing hair embrittlement, but substantially greater proportionsthan those above indicated can be employedif the composition is not lefton the hair too long and if appropriate steps are taken to be sure thatit iscompletely eliminated from the hair by an after treatment. However,any percentage of mercaptan in excess of about 10% tends to be injuriousto the hair and when a mercaptan is employed in a com position used tostraighten kinky hair itis essential in any case to use in combinationtherewith the protective base material hereinabove described. The aquaammonia component of the foregoing compositionis a 28% solution ofammonia hydroxide.

A typical formulation within the foregoing more generally indicatedcomposition formulation is as follows:

The method of preparing theiforegcing composition is essentially thesame as that hereinabove described except that the ammoniumthioglycolate and aqua ammonia are added to the solution of the ammoniumcarbonate and sodium bisulfite with which the previously prepared basematerial thereafter is admixed. The manner of its use in thestraightening of kinky hair or in the waving of normally straight hairis also essentially the same as that hereinabove described except thatthe hair after initial swelling and softening is maintained at roomtemperature or thereabouts while held in the ultimate configurationdesired. Moreover, there is the important difference that because of thepresence in the composition of the mercaptan it is essential, in ordernot to permanently damage the hair, to subject the hair to an aftertreatment which completely eliminates any residual activity of themercaptan toward the hair and serves to set or fix the hair in itsaltered configuration. For this purpose an after treatment of the hairwith an oxidizing agent such as sodium or potassium bromate or such assodium perborate is suitable as mentioned above. 1

While in the preceding formulae containing mercaptan certain specificingredients have been set forth, it is to be understood that this hasbeen done for illustrative purposes and that the foregoing more generalconsiderations are applicable as regards the proportions and nature ofthe respective ingredients other than the mercaptan including thewater-soluble soap, the anionic wetting agent, the ammoniacal buffer,the reducing agent for keratin, and the unsaturated acid emollient. Itis also to be understood that mercaptans other than ammonium thio-'glycolate may be employed such asthose disclosed in the aforesaidPatent No. 2,577,710, although when a mercaptan is also employed thetotal reducing agent component of the composition should be less than10% and preferably around 4% to 7% by weight of the composition as awhole. V

In connection with the compositions hereinabove disclosed one may, ifdesired, include therein a thickening agent. Employment of a thickeningagent is particularly suitable when the composition is used in thestraightening of kinky hair so as to facilitate the laying out of thehair in straightened condition, although its presence is not essential.One very desirable thickening agent is methyl cellulose. Methylcellulose is preferably employed in the form of a preformed gel solutionwhich is referred to hereinafter as methylcellulosegel. Such a gel canbe prepared using, for example, 4 pounds of high viscositymethylcellulose (400 cps.) ,together with pounds 8 ounces of distilledor deionized water and 8 ounces of sodium benzoate to make up pounds ofthe gel. The methylcellulose is preferably pretreated by subjecting 1tin a closed drum to a temperature of about 8 to 93 C.

for about 4 hours or longer, and is added to the water in which thesodium benzoate has been dissolved while the water is at a temperatureof about 70 to 80 C. Mixing is continued for about one hour, and themixture is permitted to cool. over aperiod of about 8 hours and then ispermitted to stand for about 48 hours with occasional mixing. Any waterloss as the result of evaporation during the process is compensated forand the resulting methylcellulose gel that is added preferably is of therange from about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition as a whole.A methylcellulose gel content of about 4% has been found to beespecially desirable when included in the last mentioned specificexample of composition formulation.

Other known thickening agents such assodium alginate solution may alsobe employed. I

The above-described compositions whichcomprise a mercaptan and which areespecially adapted for treatment of hair non-professionally at roomtemperature are also suitable for imparting permanent waves or curls tonormally straight hair under such conditions.

Whenamereaptan is employed the necessity for inclusion of a substantialamount of amaterial such as aqua ammonia tends to raise the pH of thecomposition so as to be somewhat in excess of that which is preferablein the case of the preferred formulations wherein the mercaptan isomitted. Thus, when the mercaptan is present somewhat differentinfluences come into play for the mercaptan becomes of greatereffectiveness at somewhat higher values of pH, and the region of mosteffective pl-Igoes as high as about 9.8. Higher pH values for thecomposi tion tend to be too severe on the hair. It is preferable,therefore, to hold down the pH so as to be not greater than about 9.However, the activity of mercaptans is such that substantialeffectiveness is retained for pH values down to about 7.

Since the presence of the mercaptan is consistent with the formulationof the treating composition over a rela tively wide range of pH amaterial such as triethanol amine may also be included in thecomposition. When triethanol amine is employed there can be a lesseningof the amount of aqua ammonia and a corresponding lowering of the strongammoniacal odor that is the necessary incident of using aqua ammonia.Triethanol amine in and of itself exercises some beneficial effect inwaving or straightening hair and also possesses certain emulsifyingproperties. More generally the presence of triethanol amine in amountssuch as from 1% to 6% may be additionally included in any of theformulations hereinabove disclosed and especially in those which includea mercaptan.

The employment of my base material is generally of advantage inconnection with the straightening of kinky hair regardless of the natureof the chemical substances which are employed such as other reducingagents including not only the mercaptans but also sulfides and normalalkali metal sulfites even though such other reducing agents andchemicals have the above mentioned draw- .backs incident to their use,for in any case the base material has the effect of greatly lesseninghair damage while permitting the hair to become softened and swollen sothat it can be reset in desired different or altered configurations. Anexample of a composition which contains neither an ammoniacal buffer nora reducing agent of the kind exemplified by alkali metal bisulfite butwhich can be employed in the straightening of kinky hair if promptlyfollowed by an oxidizing after treatment is as follows, the percentagesbeing by weight:

Percent Anionic wetting agent (such as sodium lauryl sulfate or Triton200) 4.0 Water-soluble soap 5.6 Ammonium thioglycolate 13.0 Aqua ammonia(28% soln.) 3.4 Methylcellulose gel 3.0 Water 71.0

The above composition can be prepared in the manner above described.Thus, the base is first prepared and permitted to become cured until itis in the form of a smooth paste-like mass. Water is then added andthereafter the other ingredients are added in the order mentioned,namely, the methylcellulose gel, the ammonium thioglycolate and the aquaammonia.

While this invention has been described and illustrated in connectionwith certain typical examples of the practice thereof it is to beunderstood that this has been done for illustrative purposes and thatthe practice of this invention can be varied according to the principleshereinabove set forth and within the scope of the claims hereafter made.

I claim:

1. A composition effective for straightening kinky hair which consistsessentially of a creamy dispersion in water of the following ingredientsin substantially the following proportions byweight:

Percent Anionic wetting agent .3 to 6 Percent Water-soluble soap 2 to 10Ammonium carbonate 2 to 8 Alkali-metal bisulfite 1.5 to 5 Aqua ammonia(28% soln.) 0 to 2 Triethanolamine 0 to 6 Unsaturated organic acidemollient 0 to 5 Methylcellulose gel 0 to 6 Anionic wetting agent .3 to6 Water-soluble soap 2 to 10 Ammoniacal buffer 2 to 13 Alkali-metalbisulfite 1.5 to 5 Mercaptan ,.5 to 8.5

the ratio by weight of the ammonium salt content of said ammoniacalbuffer to said alkali-metal bisulfite being at least about 1 to 1 andthe pH of the composition being between about 7.5 and 9.8, and thecombined weight of said alkali-metal bisulfite and said mercaptan notbeing greater than about 10%.

4. A composition suitable for straightening kinky hair comprising areducing agent for keratin dissolved in an alkaline aqueous base havinga pH not greater than 9.8 and containing about .3% to about 6% by weightof said composition of an anionic wetting agent and from about 2% toabout 10% by weight of said composition of water soluble soap.

5. A composition according to claim 4 which comprises from about 2% toabout 10% by weight of an ammonium salt of a weak organic acid.

6. A composition according to claim 4 wherein said reducing agent forkeratin comprises alkali-metal bisulfite that constitutesfrom about 1.5%to about 5% by weight of said composition and which comprises ammoniumcarbonate that constitutes from about 2% to about 10% by weight of saidcomposition, the ratio by weight of said ammonium carbonate to saidalkali metal bisulfite being at least 1 to 1.

7. A composition suitable for straightening kinky hair comprising thefollowing ingredients in substantially the following proportions byweight dispersed in an aqueous medium Percent Anionic wetting agent .3to 6 Water-soluble soap 2 to 10 Ammonium carbonate 2 to 8 Reducing agentfor keratin 1.5 to 5 the ratio by weight of said ammonium carbonate tosaid reducing agent for keratin being from about 1.5 to 1 to about 4 to1, said reducing agent for keratin having a molar redox potential at apH of 8.2 which is approximately that of sodium bisulfite, saidcomposition having a pH in the range from about 7.5 to 9.5, and at leastabout 40% by weight of said water soluble soap consisting of soap ofunsaturated fatty acid.

8. A composition according to claim 7 wherein said composition containsat least about 2.5% by weight of said anionic wetting agent and whereinsaid reducing agent for keratin consists essentially of alkali metalbisulfite.

9. A method of straightening kinky hair which comcomposition is carriedby the hair and thereafter settingthe hair in straightened condition."

References Cited inthe file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS FOREIGNPATENTS Great Britain Mar. 18, 1936 GreatBritain June 19, 1936 FranceJune 9, 1933 Switzerland Dec. 1, 1947 -Germany Oct. 18, 1940 GreatBritain May 16', 1935 France Aug; 21, 1935 France Nov. 4, 1937 GreatBritain AD 1888 Great Britain Ian. 10, 1951 QTHER REFERENCES" E antic,Gctoher 1945,11. 536, entry Ethanolamine Schimmel Briefs, No. 176,November 1949, 1st item De Navarre: Chem. and Manuf. of C0s., 1941, p.466, item Wetting Agents.

20 Poucher: Perfumes, Cos. and Soaps," vol. III of Treatise onCosmetics, D. Van Nostrand, N. Y., 1942,

Modern Cosmeticology, Chem. Pub. Co.,

Brooklyn, N. Y., 1947, pp. 340342. 25 Bennett: Cosmetic Formulary,"Chem. Pub. Co., 1937,

1,906,484 Nnesslein May 2, 1933 2,087,953 Malone July 27, 193'? 15thioglyc l my 2,155,178 Brown Apr. 18, 1939' 2,207,241 Davis July 9,1940 (esp, 1 t pan), 2,310,687 Friedman Feb. 9, 1943 2,389,755 Baker'Nov. 27, 1945 2,400,377 Speakman May 14, 1946' 2,405,166 Reed et a1 Aug.6, 1946 2,418,664 Ramsey Apr. 8, 1947 p. 19;; 2,479,382 Mace Aug. 16,1949 2,506,492 De Mytt et a1. May 2, 1950 2,540,980 Den Beste et a1.Feb. 6, 1951 2,577,710 McDonough Dec. 4, 1951 p, 116,

2,739,033 Lubs' Mar. 20, 1956 Trends, Manf. Chemist, November 1940, p.279.

1. A COMPOSITION EFFECTIVE FOR STRAIGHTENING KINKY HAIR WHICH CONSISTSESSENTIALLY OF A CREAMY DISPERSION IN WATER OF THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTSIN SUBSTANTIALLY THE FOLLOWING PROPORTIONS BY WEIGHT: PERCENT ANIONICWETTING AGENT -------------------- .3 TO 6 WATER-SOLUBLE SOAP---------------------- 2 TO 10 AMMONIUM CARBONATE----------------------- 2 TO 8 ALKALI-METAL BISULFITE--------------------- 1.5 TO 5 AQUA AMMONIA (28% SOLN.)----------------- 0 TO 2 TRIETHANOLAMINE ---------------------------- 0TO 6 UNSATURATED ORGANIC ACID EMOLLIENT --------- 0 TO 5 METHYLCELLULOSEGEL ------------------------ 0 TO 6